Every bottle of PMU pigment carries a small piece of chemistry on its label. Once you know how to read a PMU pigment label and its CI codes, you can tell which colourants are inside, which of them dominate the formula and how the shade is likely to behave as it heals and fades. This guide walks you through the label step by step, so you can choose pigments with more confidence and fewer surprises at the touch-up.
In Short
- A CI (Colour Index) number is a unique five-digit code that identifies one specific colourant.
- Ingredients are listed in descending order of quantity, so the first few lines tell you the most about the formula.
- CI codes in the 77000 range are inorganic colourants such as iron oxides, titanium dioxide and carbon black; most lower ranges are organic.
- Warm and cool colourants, and their position in the list, help you predict how a pigment will heal and fade.
- Always check the REF, LOT and expiry date: a missing lot number is a serious red flag.
Pigment or Dye: Why the Difference Matters
The words "pigment" and "dye" are often used as synonyms, but they are not the same thing. Both give colour to a binding medium, yet they behave very differently:
- Pigments are insoluble in water, oil or alcohol. They are present in the liquid as a very fine powder, which is what allows them to stay in the skin as particles.
- Dyes dissolve in their medium. In PMU, soluble natural colourants are associated with a higher risk of allergic reactions.
A professional PMU pigment always has two parts: a dry colourant and a liquid base. The base usually contains distilled water, alcohol as an antimicrobial agent, glycerin and glycols that prevent drying and give softness and flow, plus a thickener. Both parts shape how the product works, and both appear on the label.
What a CI Code Actually Is
The Colour Index is a reference work created and maintained by the Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC) and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). It has been published since 1925 and is now available online.
Every chemical substance used as a colourant receives a five-digit number, assigned according to the Colour Index Generic Names and Constitution Numbers. That number is unique: CI 77891 always means titanium dioxide, whichever brand puts it in the bottle. This is why CI codes are so useful. Shade names are marketing, CI codes are chemistry.
Next to CI codes you will also see two other identifiers for ingredients in general:
- CAS number: a unique numerical identifier from the Chemical Abstracts Service registry, for example Aqua CAS 7732-18-5.
- EC number: the European identifier, for example Aqua EC 231-791-2.
Manufacturers often give only one of these numbers per ingredient. That is not a problem. What matters is that every ingredient in the pigment is listed and that the names are legible and match the international registers.
Reading CI Ranges: Organic vs Inorganic
The first digits of a CI number tell you which chemical family a colourant belongs to. You do not need to memorise every code, but knowing the main ranges helps you see at a glance what kind of pigment you are holding.
| CI range | Family | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| 11000-19999 | Monoazo (organic) | Synthetic organic colourants. A suffix such as ":1" marks a lake: the colourant bound to a metal salt, which makes it very persistent. |
| 20000-39999 | Disazo and other azo (organic) | Often bright yellows, oranges and reds, typically somewhat more stable than monoazo. |
| 74000-74999 | Phthalocyanines | Very stable blues and greens. Watch for them in brow pigments. |
| 75000 range | Natural colourants | For example carmine (CI 75470). Natural organic colourants tend to be partly soluble and more allergenic. |
| 77000-77999 | Inorganic (mineral) | Iron oxides (CI 77491 red, CI 77492 yellow, CI 77499 black), titanium dioxide (CI 77891), carbon black (CI 77266), chromium oxide green (CI 77288). |
A formula that contains both organic codes and 77000 codes is usually what the market calls a hybrid pigment. A formula built only on 77000 codes is mineral (inorganic). If you would like a deeper comparison of the three groups, read our guide Hybrid, Mineral or Organic PMU Pigments: What's the Difference?
How to Read the Ingredients List
Ingredients are listed in descending order: the substance present in the largest amount comes first, and the rest follow in decreasing quantity. Take this example of a brow pigment formula:
Aqua, CI 77891, CI 21095, CI 21110, CI 21108, CI 77492, Glycerin, CI 77266, CI 77288, CI 74260
Here is how to interpret it:
- The first three ingredients make up most of the formula. In this case that is water, titanium dioxide (CI 77891) and an organic yellow colourant (CI 21095). Titanium dioxide high up in the list means the shade is lightened and made more opaque with white.
- Look for the warm colourants. Oranges, yellow-reds and yellow iron oxide (such as CI 21110, CI 21108 and CI 77492 in this list) give warmth.
- Locate the cool colourants and their position. Black (CI 77266), greens (CI 77288, CI 74260) and blues are the most persistent colourants in the skin. The higher they sit in the list, the stronger their influence on the healed result, especially as the warmer colourants fade first.
Combine the label with a simple practical test: rub a drop of pigment onto a damp cotton pad. The colour that appears at the edges shows you the pigment's base (yellow, orange, red, green or black), and together with the CI list it gives you a clear picture of how the shade will develop.
Why the Label Helps You Predict the Healed Colour
Organic and inorganic colourants behave differently in the skin, so the balance of CI codes gives you real clues about the healed and long-term result.
Inorganic (Mineral) Colourants
- Need a denser application.
- Give a soft result and natural, muted colours.
- Usually fade over time through a warm tone.
- Tend to turn neutral or grey under laser removal rather than changing to a bright colour.
Organic Colourants
- Need a lighter application, because their colour strength is high.
- Give brighter, cleaner colour.
- With medium or dense application they can shift into unwanted tones over time.
- May turn orange under laser removal.
So when you see a label dominated by organic codes, plan a lighter hand. When you see only 77000 codes, expect to work denser and to get a softer, warmer fade. And when cool colourants such as black or green sit high in the list, consider your client's skin undertone carefully, because those are the colours that will remain longest. For more on matching shades to skin, see How to choose a brow pigment for your client's skin phototype.
The Rest of the Label: REF, LOT and Expiry
Beyond the ingredients, a professional pigment label carries traceability information. Check it every time you open a new bottle:
- REF: the product's article number.
- BEST BY: the expiry date. Also note the shelf life after opening, if the manufacturer states one.
- LOT: the batch number. It allows the manufacturer to trace production if there is ever a question about a product. A bottle without a lot number is a serious red flag for authenticity.
- Batch code: some brands add a separate internal batch code.
Record the LOT number of the pigments you use in each client file. It takes a few seconds and gives you full traceability if a client ever reports a reaction.
What to Use: Pigments With Clear Information
Buying from an established supplier means you receive original bottles with complete labelling. At PMU Master Boutique you can compare formulas across brands in our PMU pigments collection, or go straight to eyebrow pigments. If you prefer a fully inorganic formula, the FACE Minerals Brow Line is built on mineral colourants, for example FACE Mineral Warm. For working with residue and adjusting undertones, explore our correctors.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does CI stand for on a PMU pigment?
CI stands for Colour Index. Each colourant has its own five-digit CI number, so the same code always refers to the same substance, regardless of brand or shade name.
How can I tell if a pigment is mineral or hybrid from the label?
Look at the CI codes. If all colourants are in the 77000 range (iron oxides, titanium dioxide, carbon black), the pigment is inorganic. If you also see organic codes from lower ranges, it is a hybrid.
Why does the order of ingredients matter?
Ingredients are listed from the largest to the smallest amount. The first few lines show what dominates the formula, and the position of cool colourants tells you how strongly they will influence the healed colour.
Is it a problem if only the CAS or only the EC number is given?
No. Many manufacturers list one of the two. The important thing is that every ingredient is declared with a clear, recognisable name.
What should I do if a bottle has no lot number?
Do not use it on a client. A missing lot number means the product cannot be traced and may not be original. Contact your supplier before working with it.
Reading labels becomes second nature after a few bottles, and it makes your colour choices far more predictable. If you have a question about a specific formula or want help choosing a shade, our team is happy to help on WhatsApp.
