The same brow pigment can heal very differently on two clients. The main reasons are the skin's phototype (how much melanin it has) and its undertone. Choosing with both in mind gives you more predictable healed results and fewer corrections.
1. Determine the phototype
Most PMU artists use the Fitzpatrick scale from I (very fair, always burns) to VI (very dark, never burns). As a rule of thumb:
- Types I–II: light, soft shades. Very dark pigments can look harsh and may heal greyish.
- Types III–IV: medium browns usually work well. Pay close attention to undertone.
- Types V–VI: deeper, warmer browns. Pigment shows through more melanin, so very light or very cool shades can disappear or turn ashy.
2. Check the undertone
Look at the veins on the inner wrist and how the skin reacts in the sun. Cool undertones (bluish veins, pink skin) tend to pull healed colour towards grey or ash. Warm undertones (greenish veins, golden skin) tend to pull it warmer. Many artists add a little warmth, using a warmer pigment or a few drops of an orange/yellow modifier, for clients with cool undertones or a history of ashy healing.
3. Match to natural hair, not trends
Choose a shade close to the client's natural brow hair, or slightly lighter. Healed PMU almost always looks a little softer and cooler than fresh work, so it's better to build up in a touch-up than to start too dark.
4. Test and document
- Swatch the pigment on the skin before the procedure, and follow the manufacturer's colour chart and instructions for mixing.
- Photograph the fresh result and the healed result after 4–6 weeks. Over time you'll build your own reference for each brand and skin type.
Where to start
You'll find brow pigments from Hanafy, FACE, AS Company, Biocolors and more in our brow pigments collection. For warming or neutralising, see our correctors and modifiers. Not sure which shade suits a client? Send us a message and we'll help you choose.
