THE SECRETS TO CREATING PERFECT EYEBROWS: A PROFESSIONAL GUIDE
1. Fundamentals of Brow Architecture
When constructing a brow shape, we must always carefully study the facial features, paying close attention to the set and shape of the eyes, as well as the geometry of the face. Nature is amazing in its diversity. People's eyes differ not only in shape but also in set (spacing), slant, size, and anatomical features.
The 7 Common Face Shapes
Oval Shape: Considered the ideal shape based on natural lines. Almost any brow shape suits this face, but brows with a soft arch look particularly effective.
Round Shape: A brow with a high arch (lift) and a short tail is recommended to visually lengthen the face.
Rectangular Shape: Straighter and longer brows are suitable. Avoid high arches and sharp bends.
Square Shape: High, rounded arches are ideal. A straight brow line with a smoothly rounded, elongated tail also works well. Avoid brows that are too thin or too dark.
Triangular Shape (Heart): A long, arched brow with a slightly lifted tail is recommended. Short, straight brows are contraindicated.
Pear Shape (Trapezoid): Brows should be slightly set apart and elongated. A straight, elegant line or a slightly rounded shape with a smooth apex and long tail is recommended.
Diamond Shape: This shape is characterized by angularity, which needs to be softened with round brows in a proper arc. Straight, correct shapes also work. Avoid sharp, angular breaks.
To understand how a brow is constructed, we first define the 5 key points:
- Start of the brow (bottom edge).
- Start of the brow (top edge).
- The Apex (The Peak / Highest point).
- The point on the bottom edge directly under the Apex.
- The End of the brow (The Tail).
2. Correcting Face and Eye Shape by Moving the 5 Key Points
Eye Set: Working with Points 1 & 2 (The Head)
Normal Set (A = B = A): The proportions are ideal and require no correction.
Close Set (A > B): The distance between the brows needs to be visually widened.
Wide Set (A < B): The zone between the brows needs to be brought closer together using tinting or makeup.
Eye Shape: Working with Point 3 (The Apex)
Almond (Classic): Do not move Point 3.
Round Eyes: To visually elongate the eye, move Point 3 from the center of the face toward the periphery (temples).
Narrow Eyes: Move Point 3 toward the center of the face to visually round out the eye shape.
Face Shape: Working with Point 4 (Arch Depth)
Long Face: Point 4 needs to be moved down. This makes the brows straighter along the bottom line (Points 1–4–5) and visually widens the face.
Wide Face: Point 4 should be shifted diagonally toward the center of the face (Points 1–4) to give the brows an expressive arch and increase the visual length of the face.
The Tail: Working with Points 1 & 5 (Horizontal Axis)
In nature, there are 3 classifications of brows based on the horizontal axis:
Classic: The start of the brow (bottom line) is on the same horizontal level as the tail.
Ascending: The start of the brow (bottom line) is lower than the tail.
Descending (Falling): The start of the brow is higher than the tail.
Rule: All variations are acceptable except the falling tail. A falling tail visually makes the face look sad and tired.
The Bulb (Head) Shape: Working with Points 1 & 2
Round: Classic, suits calm and gentle features.
Square: Graphic, suits only model-like faces with ideal features.
Slanted / Angled: Corrects the visual set of the eyes.
3. Mapping and Constructing the Shape for Tinting / PMU
Classical Construction
Today, there are many ways to find the right shape, but let's look at the classic method created by nature itself.
The Head (Start): The midpoint between the center of the face and the inner corner of the eye.
The Tail (End): The midpoint between the vertical lines of the outer face contour and the outer eye contour. (Determine these two extreme points and divide the line into 3 equal parts).
The Apex (Highest Point): Located at 2/3 of the length from the start. (The height of the brow lift equals the vertical width of the eye).
The Body: The distance from the head to the bend, formed by two parallel lines.
Symmetry: Maintain the angle at which the brow is built.
Mapping with Thread, Ruler, and Pencil
In practice, the most convenient and fastest method is mapping with a thread (string), ruler, and pencil. Usually, a natural shape already exists, and it is impossible to change it radically—only slight corrections using the tricks mentioned above.
Start Boundary: Draw a straight line from the wing of the nose to the inner corner of the eye, continuing to where it intersects the brow.
End Boundary: Draw a straight line from the wing of the nose to the outer corner of the eye, continuing to the intersection point.
Highest Point (Apex): Determine by a line drawn from the wing of the nose through the outer line of the iris (when looking straight ahead).
Next, using a thread, mark the horizontal levels of the upper brow lines and connect points 2–3 and 3–5. Check: Note that the diagonals 3–5 of both brows must coincide in the center of the face. This is your verification of correct construction.
4. Correction with Tweezers and Wax
Basic Correction Rules
Once the future shape is built, you can proceed to correction and modeling. This can be done using sharpened tweezers, wax, or thread.
Hygiene: Tweezers must be disinfected and sterilized in advance.
Tweezing: Plucking must be done only in the direction of hair growth.
Waxing: Apply wax with the direction of hair growth, pressing it firmly into the skin, and remove (pull) against the hair growth.
Threading: Done against the hair growth.
Post-Procedure: After finishing, wipe the skin with Chlorhexidine or any disinfecting liquid.
Note: Be especially careful when working with thick and long brows. It is better not to trim (cut) long hairs but to thin out the shape inside. This ensures the brow looks maximally natural, and hairs won't stick out in different directions.
5. Coloristics
Determine the brightness of the tint based on:
- Hair / root tone (cold or warm).
- The client's desired result.
- Intensity and brightness of the overall image.
- Color type (complexion, skin tone, hair color).
Choice of dye depends on:
- Density of the original brows.
- Desired result.
- Skin type.
6. Materials and Tools for the Brow Artist
Achieving truly flawless results is impossible without high-quality, reliable materials and tools. With such a huge variety available in the brow and PMU industry, artists often spend a lot of time and money searching for the perfect products.
In practice, premium products do not always guarantee better results, while many professional and budget-friendly materials deliver consistent, long-lasting, high-quality outcomes. To simplify your work and save you time, all essential products for brow mapping, tinting, and permanent makeup can be purchased directly in our store — PMU Master Boutique.
You can find everything you need, including:
- Mapping tools and accessories
- Professional brow pigments (Hanafy, FACE, The Pigment, As Company etc)
- Permanent makeup tools, cartridges, machines and must-have supplies
All products in our shop are carefully selected, tested by professionals, and suitable for both beginners and experienced PMU artists.
Summary: How to Create Ideal Brows?
First: Study the geometry of the face, the shape and set of the eyes, and the natural brow data.
Second: Apply knowledge of forms to build the shape most suitable for the face type.
Third: Perform correction only with clean tools and strictly outside the built shape.
Fourth: Choose the type and brightness of the dye based on natural features and client wishes.
Watch our YouTube video on professional brow mapping here:
Sometimes all you need is to just try. Learn to make truly class brows with PMU Master Boutique.
